Day 6 - Still Venice
Still felt wrecked when we woke up at 9 this morning had breakfast outside
in the garden with a woman from Boston whose son is studying in Florence
(via McGill) for the summer ancient Roman history he's smart, we should
all do something like that at Uni as first degrees don't seem to matter much
anymore anyways! Had nutella on my melba toast this morning, so breakfast
was that much better. Took the boat to Murano, museum closed Wednesday so
wandered into a few stores and factories to watch a bit of glass blowing
didn't buy anything (sorry Anna, you know me). Went to the church that is
supposed to be interesting has some dragon bones, but it was closed (10
minutes too late). Didn't feel too bad as lots of churches in Italy. Next we
went to the Ghetto (the term getto was coined in Venice in the 1500's) when
the Jews were made to live in a specific area the Foundry area or Ghetto
in Italian they were free to roam about during the day but had to be
locked in at night and they had to wear distinctive yellow symbols of some
sort on their clothing. We took a tour of 3 old synagogues very
interesting. Found out that jews could only be one of three professions
money lenders (because Christians forbidden to do it as per the bible),
clothes salesmen and something else which I can't remember(doctors). The only reason
they were locked away in Venice was for political not religious reasons
other countries would not do business with Venice if the Jews were free and
wandering about. I'll stop going on now, you're probably bored. We hiked
back home stopping to get our daily gelato and Cyp and Ellis are sleeping
again. It's about 5 pm we¹ll head out again when they're up - our last
night in Venice. Cyp tells me not to worry we'll be back in November for
his birthday ha! I like Venice, but I think I liked Rhodes as well. For
that matter, a lot of places that were conquered by the Venetians look like
Venice (except for the canals) and they are a heck of a lot cheaper. It is
interesting to see where it all comes from though.
We headed out around 6 to do el cheapo dinner a la Rick Steeves. This
involves standing up to eat. It also involved a pub crawl which sounded good
to Cyp. So we decided to start with the Ostercias on the east side of the
Rialto Bridge. We hiked through our usual route to get to the bridge
(through wireless square C. Frari) where Cyp paused for a moment to see if
he could do internet on his phone nope. We hiked by the Chinese restaurant
(I noted it for later as apparently there was a bar nearby here on the west
side of the Rialto Bridge. Tonight we got a more Rialto experience by
walking through the market that leads to the bridge. It seems everybody and
their dog (literally) comes out at night. We came across the ritzy shopping
area that we had not noticed before. We came to San Bartholomeo square and
proceeded to get lost. Looked at our book again and wandered up and down and
back and forth through all the narrow streets finally found Rostericia S.
Bartolomeo. It lacked charm to say the least bright fluorescent lighting
and glass cases containing the food. I picked what our book said deep
fried cheese and prociuotto and and a half litre of wine (about $5). The
staff was surly but friendly also as the book said. We polished off our
greasy food - I got a salmon sandwich for Ellis and then we headed out to
the next place. This was a place where you could take your water bottle and
fill it up with wine for later that part was closed though and we went to
the bar. This was a much cozier place than the last one. This time we had
prosecco and Cyp ordered the squid in its own ink (I read your advice too
late Barb) and I ordered a grilled corn type pancake which was quite tasty.
The prosecco was about $2.50 a glass and very good. Both these places seemed
to cater to locals while we were there, 2 girls about 9 or 10 came in to
kibutz with the bartender one picked up the drink nozzle and threatened to
get everyone this was laughed at by the approx 80 year old guy in the
corner. After the girls left, Ellis became the attention we made sure he
said goodbye to the old man when we left. A very different world from
Vancouver where we would not be allowed into the pub with Ellis. We then
went to another bar for more snacks and then we then hit the paticerie (ok,
not another bar but I needed a sweet snack). We meandered through the
streets, where we were pressured to buy Frauda and Fucci to St. Mark's where
the sun was just going down finally we make it at night. We walked around
the square to the sounds of cheesy music and met Liam (as mentioned earlier
7 months old from Dunbar and 20th). We walked by a man selling robotic
kitty cats and puppies and stopped to watch Cyp stood a ways away to take
pictures and noted others commenting about how the guy was already counting
his money from me and Ellis little did they know that I am el cheapo. We
wandered through the darkening streets for a while came across a group of
young boys playing soccer which we watched for a while and then made our way
back retracing our steps (stopping to watch a woman and her dancing puppet
mouse). Of course we hit one final bar on the West side of the Rialto but
as always, that last drink could not live up to the one before and we could
not recapture the elation of being just slightly tipsy. So we briskly walked
home with Ellis who was keeping the pirates away and crashed. At least Ellis
and I did Cyp headed out with his computer to the wireless bar where he
was ridiculed for it.